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How to trim edge banding

Updated: 23 October 2026

The tape is already on the shelf, and the first pass either left a proud lip or dug a groove into the face. How to trim edge banding, once the strip is stuck, is a light guided cut after the glue has gone cold, not a harder push on a warm line. This page is that sequence for thin iron-on tape. The tools themselves are scored on the [edge band trimmer comparison](/hub/diy-supplies/edge-band-trimmer). Peter F. followed maker and shop notes plus UK review themes. The steps are not a lab test. A qualifying purchase can earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

The tape is already on the shelf, and the first pass either left a proud lip or dug a groove into the face.

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Stick it, then wait

Clean the edge, cut the strip a little long, and iron the pre-glued face with the steam off. Howdens prints no temperature. Cutlist Lab’s figure is about 150–180°C. Wood Magazine says a cotton setting and no steam. Do not merge those into one dial setting. Press the tape while it is warm. Then wait about 10 minutes, which is Wood Magazine’s figure, so the glue can reharden. A warm line rips or lifts. If the roll is about 2 mm, stop and use the 2mm edge banding trimmer page. A moisture-resistant finish, where Howdens asks for one, is not something the blade does.

The side cut

Axminster’s Workshop trimmer 200099 is the double-edge motion: place it over the edge, squeeze, slide, then a light wipe. It does not say how hard to squeeze. AU93 reviews do. Too little pressure leaves the tape proud. Too much cuts the face. Keep the tool moving. On wood veneer, trim with the grain, one face at a time. That matches the UK note of birch tear-out. On melamine the double-edge squeeze is the time saver, up to the 40 mm in the AU93 bullets. A V-notch is one face. The Saker is not this step. The blade stays exposed.

Proud tape is not a cue to push harder

On MFC, an AU93 note left about 1 mm proud with too little pressure and cut both faces with too much. A harder second pass grooves the laminate. Take another light pass only if the blade is still sharp. A dull edge tears. AU93 blades blunt quickly, and a Feabolee note cites about 2 metres with no spare in the box. If the tape rips, check the blade and whether the glue is still warm before you blame the whole tool. One Feabolee buyer could not get a cut at all. Do not sand a groove already in the face and expect the tape to hide it. An ANTREATU buyer who could not set 2 mm plastic was looking at a setup failure, not a cue to lean harder.

Ends, then a light sand

The tag at the corner is not the side trimmer’s job. Square it with a knife or a chisel kept off the face. Virutex sells an end trimmer, the RC21E, not in this amazon set. SL Hardwoods lists it at £35.80 including VAT. You do not have to buy it for one shelf. After the faces are flush, two light passes with a fine abrasive dull the arris. They do not thin the tape back to the chipboard. The freehand version, with a scraper used skewed, is edge banding trimmer or knife.

Common questions

What iron setting should I use?
Howdens tells you to iron pre-glued banding and does not print a number. Cutlist Lab’s published range is about 150–180°C with the steam off. Wood Magazine says a cotton setting, also with no steam. Use one of those as a starting point on a scrap, not as a merged official setting. If the face of the tape goes shiny before it sticks, you are too hot, and a 2 mm ABS strip often will not pass the heat through at all.
Do I trim while the tape is still warm?
No. Press it while it is warm, then let the glue reharden. Wood Magazine’s figure is about 10 minutes. A cut into soft glue rips the strip or lifts it. If you have already torn a warm edge, stick a fresh piece, wait, and trim that, rather than chasing the damaged one with a harder pass.
How do I hold a double-edge trimmer?
Place it over the edge, squeeze enough to hold the body on the board, and slide the length in one steady pass, which is the Axminster description of that shape. The AU93 bullets cover edges up to 40 mm in that one pass, then the tool splits for a wider board. Light pressure and a moving tool are what the UK reviews associate with a clean cut. A hard squeeze is what cuts the face.
Which way do I run it on wood veneer?
With the grain, and one face at a time, which is the Wood Magazine caution. A double-sided cutter can meet the grain the wrong way on one side and dig in. The birch tear-out in an AU93 review is the reason to test an offcut. Melamine does not have that grain problem. Real veneer does.
The tape is still proud. Do I press harder?
Not as a first move. On MFC, an AU93 review left about 1 mm proud with too little pressure and cut both faces with too much. Take another light pass, or fit a sharp blade if the edge has dulled. Harder pressure is how a proud lip becomes a groove in the laminate. Sand only after the tape is flush, and only the arris.
The blade ripped the tape. Is the tool wrong or the blade blunt?
Often the blade, or the glue was still warm. AU93 reviews describe ripping once the blades have dulled, including after a single project. A Feabolee note cites about 2 metres. If a fresh blade on cold thin tape still rips, then look at the tool: a chamfer trimmer such as the Saker is the wrong first pass, and a 2 mm roll is the wrong tape for this method.

Related pages

Sources

Public UK sources and the amazon.co.uk listings compared on this page. Updated 22.10.2026.

  1. Virutex AU93 spare parts (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  2. SL Hardwoods: Virutex AU93 (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  3. Ostermann: manual processing of edgings (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  4. Cutwrights: edge banding (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  5. CBJ: edge banding explained (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  6. Lawcris: decorative edging (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  7. HSE: PPS12(rev1) knife safety (retrieved 22.10.2026)
  8. Cutlist Lab: edge banding (retrieved 22.10.2026)