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24V or 230V underfloor heating actuator

Updated: October 2026

You are at the wiring centre with two white heads in the basket, and the plug on the wall says 230 V. The question 24V or 230V underfloor heating actuator is answered on the actuator terminals, the screws the head's cores land on. Buy that voltage. This page is only about voltage. Normally closed or open is the [other fork](/hub/heating/underfloor-heating-actuator/sub/underfloor-heating-actuator-normally-closed-vs-open). The [underfloor heating actuator comparison](/hub/heating/underfloor-heating-actuator) is the product grid. Products Compared updated this page in October 2026 from UK centre lists and the amazon.co.uk rows. We did not measure your terminals. A purchase through our links can earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

You are at the wiring centre with two white heads in the basket, and the plug on the wall says 230 V.

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230 V and 24 V are different circuits

A 230 V actuator is powered from a 230 V zone output. A 24 V actuator is powered from a transformer in the wiring centre. The heads can share an M30 nut and still be the wrong part. UFH Direct sells both voltages on M30 and tells you to match the centre. Warmhaus spells out two failures, and they are not symmetrical. A 230 V head on a 24 V output does not open, so a normally closed loop stays cold. A 24 V head on a 230 V output can burn out, sometimes after it has started to open. If the number is not printed, you do not energise a head to find out. Thread and stroke stay on the buying guide.

Read the zone output, not the plug

The lead into the centre is often 230 V even when every actuator terminal is 24 V. Myson's 24 V sheet, model 63050599401, is the example: the centre is fed at 230 V, the actuator terminals are 24 V, and that sheet allows up to 12 actuators at 2 W. That limit belongs to that model. Read the rating printed by the actuator terminals, or the diagram inside the lid. Do not probe live terminals. If the print has rubbed off, identify the centre model, or get an electrician to identify the output with the supply made safe. The RIMEX listing states 1.8 W running and up to 300 mA inrush, which is a reason to respect the centre's own maximum.

UK centres that are often one or the other

Genius Hub publishes a compatibility list, and it is one company's table. On that list, Heatmiser UH2, UH3, UH4, UH6, and UH8 are marked 230 V. Polypipe PB1ZM, PB4ZS, and PB6ZS are marked 24 V. Uponor appears twice: the C35 as 24 V, and Uponor's wired 230 V centre as 230 V. Warmup's WHS-C-B-MASTER01 is marked 24 V. Wunda's H-Box-12 and Nu-Heat OneZone are marked 230 V. Your label wins when it disagrees with this paragraph. Warmup allows up to four actuators on its centre. Genius Hub's DA-UWC-A allows two per zone at 3 W. The replacement steps assume you are putting one matching head back on an existing zone.

What that means for these listings

Where the eleven amazon.co.uk listings state a voltage, they say 230 V. They are candidates for a 230 V zone output, and the wrong heads for a 24 V output, including a Myson-style centre whose plug is 230 V and whose terminals are 24 V. Two rows do not give a clean 230 V answer. The Heatmiser two-wire listing states no voltage, so a 4.6 from 65 does not place it on a centre. The VANCOCO five-pack states 230 V and a separate attribute says Low Voltage. Those conflict. If your lid is blank, find the centre's manual.

Common questions

How do you tell 24 V from 230 V without guessing?
Read the voltage printed at the actuator terminals or on the diagram inside the lid. The mains lead can still be 230 V. Do not energise a head as a test, and do not probe live terminals.
The lead into the centre is 230 V. Are the heads 230 V?
Only if the zone outputs are 230 V as well. Myson model 63050599401 is fed at 230 V and its actuator terminals are 24 V. A 230 V head on that output stays shut.
What happens if you fit the wrong voltage?
A 230 V head on 24 V does not open, so a normally closed loop stays cold. A 24 V head on 230 V can burn out, sometimes after a brief open.
Are the actuators in this comparison 24 V?
The ones that state a voltage say 230 V. None is a clear 24 V model. The Heatmiser two-wire row states none, and the VANCOCO five-pack also shows a Low Voltage attribute.
Is a Heatmiser UH8 a 230 V centre?
On the Genius Hub list, yes, along with the UH2, UH3, UH4, and UH6. That is one company's table. Your own terminal label is the figure you buy to.
Why do some Polypipe and Uponor centres say 24 V?
On that list, Polypipe PB1ZM, PB4ZS, and PB6ZS, and the Uponor C35, are marked 24 V. Uponor's wired 230 V centre is marked 230 V, so the brand name alone is not the voltage.
What if the label is missing?
Stop. Find the wiring-centre model and its manual, or have an electrician identify the actuator output. A 230 V socket in the house does not answer the terminal rating.

Related pages

Sources

Public UK sources and the amazon.co.uk listings in this comparison. Listings captured 15 October 2026. Page updated October 2026.

  1. Approved Document L, Volume 1 (2021, 2023 amendments) (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  2. Approved Document P (2013) (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  3. BEAMA underfloor heating controls guide (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  4. Heatmiser TA230 actuator datasheet (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  5. The Underfloor Heating Company: install an actuator (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  6. Warmup wiring centre manual (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  7. Grant UFLEX UH8 installation guide (retrieved 15 October 2026)
  8. Consumer Rights Act 2015 (retrieved 15 October 2026)