Independent comparisons. We may earn from shop links. More info

Curved claw or rip claw

Updated: 22 October 2026

You are about to buy a claw hammer and the listing cannot decide whether the claw is curved or straight. A curved claw or rip claw is that choice: one rolls a nail out, the other starts a prise between boards. Head weight is a different question. This page does not re-rank star lines, and it does not pick 16 oz against 20 oz. Peter F. updated this on 22 October 2026 from twelve amazon.co.uk listings snapshotted on 19 October 2026. There is no lab test. A qualifying purchase can earn us a commission at no extra cost to you. Prices are on the [Claw hammer comparison](/hub/hand-tools/claw-hammer).

You are about to buy a claw hammer and the listing cannot decide whether the claw is curved or straight. A curved claw or rip claw is that choice: one rolls a nail out, the other starts a prise between boards.

Our top picks

On this page

What the curve changes

A curved claw is the household shape. BuildWiz says most UK claw hammers are curved, and that the curve is what you use to pull a nail. The fork rolls under the head and lifts as you lever. It is not a promise that the timber stays unmarked. You still put a scrap block under the hammer head for the second part of the pull. That method is on how to use a claw hammer. A rip claw, also called a straight claw, is the straighter fork. ITS describes it for strip-out, boarding, and rough carpentry. Toolstation’s guide says a rip claw is often heavier, and that a claw hammer is a poor fit for heavy demolition. A straight claw can still pull a nail. It is the rougher pull, and the shape for opening boards rather than finishing them.

Listings that say both

Several pages here claim both shapes. Keep both lines. The HOUSERAN titles a straight rip claw and 500 g (16 oz). One bullet says a curved claw, and another says 8 oz. The item weight is 500 g, so the mass is the nearer figure and the claw is not settled. The MAXPOWER is the mirror image: the title says curved rip and one bullet says straight claw, while 226 g matches the 8 oz title. The Amtech titles a straight claw and one bullet talks about curved claw leverage. The OX Pro says straight in the bullets and curved on the style row.

When the claw is the part that breaks

Full leverage is when cheap claws fail in the pasted reviews. That is not a rate. On the Amtech, fence-nail pulls describe a bent claw or a head that came off. Reviews limited to tacks are milder. On the Arcjunys, at £5.99, reviews say a claw tooth snapped on a 4 inch nail or the head came off on the first joist nail. On the ASelected pair the head-style row says Curve, and two UK reviews describe the larger hammer failing during a pull. The curve did not protect the handle.

Which to buy for the job you actually have

Choose a curved claw when you will pull nails from timber you want to keep, and when the listing does not also say straight. HOUSERAN, MAXPOWER, Amtech, and the OX each print both shapes. If the photos do not show one fork, do not guess. Choose a straight or rip claw for light strip-out, and not the Arcjunys or the Amtech if you have read those pull failures. For a picture hook, a curve on a light hammer is enough. None of these listings claim BS 876, so a forged bullet is not a nail-extraction certificate.

Common questions

Which claw pulls a nail more cleanly?
The curved claw. BuildWiz and ITS describe the curve as the shape that pulls nails, and the straight or rip claw as the shape for strip-out and boarding. The curve does not guarantee an unmarked surface. Seat the claw, pull part way, and put a scrap block under the head. A straight claw can pull a nail. It is the rougher of the two pulls.
Which claw do I want for taking boards off?
A straighter rip claw, used to start a prise, and only for light board work. Toolstation’s guide says claw hammers are a poor fit for heavy demolition. If the boards are nailed hard, use a pry bar. In this set, do not pick the Arcjunys or the Amtech for that levering if you have read the bent-claw and snapped-tooth reviews.
What if the title says straight and a bullet says curved?
Keep both words. HOUSERAN’s title says straight rip and a bullet says curved. MAXPOWER’s title says curved rip and a bullet says straight. The Amtech title says straight and a bullet says curved leverage. The OX bullets say straight and the style row says curved. Confirm the live photos, or treat the shape as unknown.
Why did a cheap claw bend or snap?
Because the pull became a long lever on a claw the reviews already describe as weak. On the Amtech, fence-nail pulls line up with a bent claw or a head off. On the Arcjunys, a tooth snapped on a 4 inch nail. On the ASelected pair, the larger hammer’s shaft failed during a pull. Those are pasted UK reviews, not a percentage of every buyer. Stop when the claw or the shaft complains.
Should I prise with the claw at all?
For a nail, yes, with a scrap block under the head so you are not levering on bare timber at full length. For opening a board, a short start with a straight claw is what the rip shape is for. For demolition, masonry, or a nail that will not move, use a pry bar or a cat’s paw. A claw that has already bent does not become a crowbar.

Related pages

Sources

The standard identifier is BS 876:1995, with HSE guidance on work equipment and eye protection, plus a UK retailer hammer guide. Prices, stars, and review counts are amazon.co.uk captures from 19 October 2026, scored on 22 October 2026. They are not a lab test.

  1. BSI Knowledge: BS 876:1995, specification for hand hammers (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  2. ANSI webstore: BS 876:1995 (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  3. Intertek Inform: BS 876:1995 contents (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  4. HSE: PUWER overview (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  5. HSE L22: Safe use of work equipment (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  6. HSE: Using the right type of PPE (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  7. Toolstation: hammer buying guide (retrieved 22 October 2026)
  8. Sealey: hammer instructions (retrieved 22 October 2026)